The Japanese: geisha killer or charmers
The first image that comes from Japan is one of contrasts. Contrast between the double towers of the Tokyo City Hall designed by architect Kenzo Tange and wooden houses in the district of Ueno, the line of racy Shinkanzen, the fastest train in the world and the rickshaw which drivers run on pavements, in beautiful kimonos and girls trendy Shibuya. Even more striking is the contrast between killer and charming ...
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| The garment to practice naginata dates from the time of the Samurai |
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| The two grandmasters |
The naginata way or the stick is mostly practiced by women
Japanese martial arts were known in the West since the nineteenth century, some even later , but their tradition is much older in Japan, going back to the introduction of Buddhism in the country, in the sixth century. These fighting techniques codified by itinerant monks who had to defend themselves against the bandits reached their zenith during the era samurai , which corresponds to the medieval period, from the twelfth century. Always involving physical and mental discipline, martial arts have become more spiritual in the nineteenth century, then under Zen: concentration, meditation, counting. These arts are taught in the dojo by revered masters their students or disciples. Well known in France judo, jiu-jitsu , karate, kendo or way of the sword, Kyudo or archery or even the aikido founded later. There is much less discipline, more specifically women, the naginata or track stick, word for both the martial arts weapon that, once a sword stuck on a pole today after a stick bent. The dojo where it is practiced is a large stadium located in the northern suburbs of Tokyo.
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| A fight choreography set as |
The arrival in Tokyo station announced another world, busy and bustling in this megacity of more than eight million inhabitants in an ever-growing neighborhoods winner sea At night, light signs of Shinjuku as bunches of lights. This is the place of pleasure, hostess bars and pachinkos , vertical slots.
But in the dojo, we could still believe in the heroic medieval period, that of the samurai . Two women in blue trousers and white tunic, master and master Takeko Kajiyama Mitsuko Tsujimura, welcome us with profound greetings and I will learn with astonishment that both are aged 76 years, began on naginata to age 3 and were world champions.
The naginata , dowry of a girl
The course begins with a meditation before the tokonoma or alcove containing a kakemono or suspended roller representative in this case a luminous disc conducive to concentration. Following stretching exercises before the start of the course itself. The eighteen students are placed face to face, two by two, taking in hand the long stick barely bent at one end and repeat endlessly the actions of the attack and the parade rolling like a ballet on the floor of dojo. For the next step, they are caged or mask men with protection for shoulders and throat, padded gloves or kote, leggings and the armor protecting the torso, and Sune ate do the apron of the hips or tare, as they were invented by monks five hundred years earlier. Taking the stick is always changing and the attacks continue, finely tuned and elegant look under the specific teacher, punctuated by wild cries for free flow of qi or vital force. Not to laugh assaults, blows being dealt with force, those eyes becoming real killer.
honor for us, we offer both masters then a demonstration. A profound silence reigned in the dojo while the two masters, without helmet or breastplate, compete in a perfect choreography of violence alone. It's beautiful and long applause rang students.
- Mastering tokonoma , "said Kajiyama Takeko master is controlling his body and soul, is achieving what the body is fully resolved by the mind. This way the stick corresponds to women, often more agile and flexible than men, because it requires no real strength. It is also an effective self-defense capable of using any what form of bar or branch and can kill, of course.
School geishas Hakone
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| The geisha district of Gion |
Very different is the atmosphere of grace and seduction prevailing in a traditional wooden house in Hakone, where old geisha have formed an association to convey their art. Hakone is a pretty provincial town lies between the valley and the volcanic lake Owakudani Ashino. This peaceful house and out of time where we were received by the master Misao, a former geisha , is dedicated to learning for girls wishing to become in turn geishas or perfect their art: namely evolve through the heavy silk kimono, on uncomfortable wooden skates, learning to Grimer white, eyes rimmed with red towards the temples, petal-shaped mouth, neck painted in the tradition of samurai time, namely singing, dancing, poems say, animate a conversation, serve tea in the rules, aesthetic and philosophical ceremony codified in the sixteenth century by the master Sen no Rikyu. Misao kneels to master chords on his samisen very slow, three-stringed lute, while his two pupils, and Momoyo Kotone, real geisha who want to improve, practice the difficult art of handling the fan and the parasol. From time to time, Misao master got up, approached one of the girls to give a hint: it extends the range in a modest gesture, lifting handle to the face, the umbrella is opened in the heading the host to be honored.
Of geishas national treasure
Three centuries ago, the geishas lived together in the pleasure districts of cities, called the Floating World . They were of advantage as hosts, sometimes known as living national treasure , as prostitutes, even if the border was not clear - and still is not, pace and master Misao students. These hosts paid the price of gold to receive distinguished guests or hosting a banquet in their charm, culture and grace could of course override these functions. They generally had wealthy patron or danna be their lover and their well-being. The writer William Golden issued their lifestyle to the Western world in his book Geisha. Today, there are still about ten to eight hundred geisha in Japan, including Tokyo mile and five cents in the charming neighborhood of Gion Kyoto where you can easily spot them at dusk, gliding stealthily to specialty restaurants and tea houses where they receive their clients.
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| Dance Lesson at the range in the geisha school Hakone |
Momoyo Kotone interpret and now for us these smooth gliding steps and dances Deals of the past, while Master Misao, herself a former geisha , plays samisen .
- Today, Misao explain the geisha no longer live in karyukai of old, but remain with their parents until marriage. This does not prevent them from continuing to practice their profession, very honorable and respected, and having children. We founded this organization to preserve our art and traditions to pass on our youngest. It would be sad if all this beauty is lost.
- Being a geisha adds Momoyon with his delightful smile, does not find a husband, quite the contrary. I chose this profession for all that it implies harmony. I love wearing a traditional kimono, but also learn and repeat the exercise as much as possible, and I continue to get better in these courses, gestures and arts of courtesans of old.
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| Time to go! |
Factsheet :
Getting there : In Japan airline, 4, rue de Ventadour 75001 Paris, Tel. : 01 44 35 55 72 and by visiting the Tourist Office, same address and Tel. : 01 42 96 28 89, www.tourisme-japon.fr .
How to organize your trip:
- Voyageurs du Monde 55, rue Sainte-Anne 75002 Paris, Tel. : 08 92 23 56 56, leading expert of Japan will organize a customized trip and give you the password JR, allowing you to travel on most trains in Japan.
- agency NostaAsie, 19, rue Damesme, 75013 Paris, Tel. : 01 43 13 29 29 is also specialist in Japan.
- Where to stay: In many cities, hotels Prince, 12, rue Vignon 75009 Paris, Tel. : 01 53 05 99 09 generally enjoy a beautiful view and the prices are reasonable.
At Hakone, delicious ryokan or inn traditional Mikawaya, 503 Kowakidani, Hakone-Machi.
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